I’m told by people that the veiling of women is a relatively recent phenomena in Egypt. In the 80s and 90s when Egyptian men started going to the Arab Gulf states to work in the oil fields they saw a more conservative form of Islam on display than they were familiar with in Egypt. As they witnessed the prosperity of the Gulf countries in contrast with their own national problems, some deduced that “a return to Allah” was needed to get their country on track. When they came home they brought with them this more conservative form of Islam including the hijab (veil) and niqab (full black covering) for their wives, daughters and sisters.
Today most women in Egypt are veiled, except Christians and foreigners, of course. Veils (hijab) are the predominant choice for most women. For many women, veils appear to be as much a fashion accessory, color coordinated to the rest of their wardrobe, as it is a show of modesty. The new style this year is to wear what looks to be several veils bunch in the back of a your head so that your outer veil stands out and you appear to have a mane like a lion. I’m not fond of this look.
Some women wear the full, flowing niqab. Many wear something between the two. Whether they wear a niqab or a hijab, most women are dressed with their arms covered to the wrist and wear long skirts or pants.
When I’m in Egypt I tend to dress pretty conservatively. I wear longish skirts or loose fitting pants. I wear t-shirts or tops that tend to be pretty plain and cover me up for the most part. Around Ma’adi it’s not uncommon for me to go out in short sleeves – that’s not an uncommon sight in this neighborhood. When I’m going to be in the sun or in other parts of the city I make sure my arms are covered. I try to dress in a way that doesn’t draw attention to myself or doesn’t look flashy. I am not a walking billboard that says, “look at me!!!”
Even so, a walk down the streets of Ma’adi can be pretty dehumanizing. I’ve long known and read about the issues with harassment of women in Egypt – it’s an enormous problem. There is a machismo that rules the street, not unlike other culture. I’ve experienced my fair share of stares, inappropriate “bumps” and comments over the years. Maybe I’m just more sensitized to this issue, but I must say that the attention seems worse this year. It seems I cannot walk down the street without hearing a comment. As I said, I’m not exactly a walking billboard. I don’t walk down the streets of Ma’adi like I would the streets of Geneva with my head held high meeting the looks of those I pass. I walk with my head down trying to be as small and inconspicuous as possible. It makes no difference. Men feel free to say or do whatever they want. (Understand that I’m not being personally threatened in any way.)
I said to my friend Michael the other day after another dehumanizing walk down the street, “I begin to understand why women wear the niqab.” Certainly a woman fully covered with her body indistinguishable and invisible below her outer garments signals “off limits” to those around her. Michael said that he has heard from women who have chosen to wear the niqab that they appreciate the freedom they have to move around when they are in the garment. Men don’t comment on what they don’t see and since the niqab is associated with a certain kind of Islamic piety that also signals “off limits” to men.
The question I continue to ask, however, is, “why is it a woman’s responsibility to present herself in a way that signals to men that she is off limits.” Why aren’t men responsible for guarding and guiding their own behavior and actions?
I don’t think a hijab or a niqab is the answer, but there must be a way for men and women to show mutual respect for the humanity of each other without resorting to elaborate cover-ups.
Al Masry Al Youm English is running a series of articles this month on sexual harassment in Egypt. Look here if you want to read more.
Sounds like this would not be a good place for me-inconspicuous and silent are not my forte' and I'm not as smart as you at adapting to my surroundings. The whole world should adapt to me:)
ReplyDeleteKathy
I'm not sure what to say, but I wanted to at least thank you for this post. Lots of things to ponder about an issue that is so important.
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